Week 12

Dag 1

Ons begin die week op ‘n “rock-n-roll” wynplaas. Ek drink al vir jare lank Adi Badenhorst se Secateurs, en het al gehoor van die man wat met klaarblyklik die oudtydse maniere wyn maak. Nou is dit kans om dit eerstehands te ervaar.

Adi is die boer en wynmaker op Kalmoesfontein, iewers tussen Malmesbury en Wellington. Hy gebruik feitlik uitsluitlik bosstokke in sy wingerd.

‘n Bosstok is ‘n plant wat nie opgelei is soos vandag algemeen gebruik word in die verbouing van wyn nie. Met opgeleide wingerd is die vrugte veel meer egalig. Soortgelyke hitte, sonskyn en blootstelling aan die elemente. Met ‘n bosstok kry die een tros volle blootstelling en ‘n ander een weer bitter min. Om wyn te maak met die druiwe is dalk bietjie meer kompleks. Die risiko groter. Maar so ook, glo manne soos Adi, die beloning.

Adi wys ons hoe die stokke gesnoei word. Dis ‘n kuns om die lote die beste kans te gee op groei. Daar word ook twee keer in die seisoen gesnoei. Na die eerste snoei met die snoeiskêr, oftewel secateur, word daar gekyk hoe die plant ontwikkel, en dan word die tweede snoei gedoen.

Ons gaan kyk ook hoe Adi onderstokke ent met ‘n nuwe kultivar. Toe hy die plaas so 13 jaar gelede gekoop het, was die wingerd nie in ‘n goeie toestand nie. Met sorg, liefde en harde werk is die onderstokke vertroetel, geënt met die regte kultivars, en vandag maak Kalmoesfontein wyn van uitsonderlike gehalte.

Adi word bygestaan deur Hanneke Krüger. Sy is mede wynmaker op Kalmoesfontein. En wyn is nie al wat hulle maak nie. Adi, Hanneke en Charl, Adi se broer, maak ook Agave. Dis tequila. Dit word gemaak met die garingboom, beter bekend as die agave plant. Die plante word geoes naby Graaf Reinet waar dit op groot skaal aangeplant is. Die plante word na Kalmoesfontein gebring. Op ‘n massiewe vuur word die plante se sap gekaramelliseer, daarna word die sap geëkstraheer en gedistilleer. Dis ‘n tydsame proses, maar die resultaat is uitstekend.

‘n Ander drankie wat op Kalmoesfontein gemaak word, is ‘n cocktail mengsel wat in die Kaap verbou is aan die begin van die vorige eeu, maar om een of ander rede verdwyn het van die landskap. Dis Caperatief. Hulle noem dit ook die Kaapse Dief. Dis gefortifiseerde wyn wat gegeur word met die bitter Quinchona en meer as 40 kruie, waaronder Kaapse fynbos. Dit is uitstekend saam met tonic water, en dalk ook ‘n bietjie gin. Om Caperatief te maak is werklik ‘n kuns, en dit proe mens met elke sopie.

Hanneke gaan wys ons ook die kelders van Kalmoesfontein. Dis ou, tradisionele manier van wyn maak. Die versnit wyne van die plaas word in die kuipe gedoen. Verskillende kultivars word van die begin af saamgevoeg. Die eindresultaat is baie keer ook vir die wynmaker ‘n verassing.

Adi en Hanneke gee amper voor asof dinge maar bloot toevallig gebeur. Ons indruk is dat hulle presies weet wat hulle doen.

Middagete is deur Charl en Mina in die Kalmoesfontein kombuis. Dit begin met ‘n Suid Afrikaanse instelling – braaibroodjies. Dan die hoofgereg. Hoenders en ribbetjies hang oor die kole in die vuurherd. Dit word stadig gaar. Dan is daar ook soet patats soos net Mina dit kan maak. Ook ‘n Ceaser slaai met ‘n uitsonderlike sous.

Na die middagete is die Voetsporespannetjie bietjie uitgeput. Dis tyd vir ‘n ruskans in die pragtig gedekoreerde kamers. Vier van ons bly in die stalle. Streicher en Nina in die melkkamer.

Kalmoesfontein is ‘n besonderse ervaring.

Dag 2

Ons reis dieper die Swartland in, oor Wellington na die pragtige dorp Tulbagh met sy historiese geboue. Van daar na Wolseley, verby ‘n paar blokhuise wat die Engelse gebou het tydens die Anglo Boere-oorlog.

Ons kom aan by die dorp Ceres. Dis net so ‘n mooi plek. Die hele gemeenskap is egter in rou gedompel na die tragedie in die Kalahari toe drie gesinne feitlik uitgewis is tydens ‘n brand by ‘n lodge op ‘n duin.

Ons gaan maak ‘n draai by Ceres se zipline. Die foefieslide neem jou met agt verskillende lyne vir ‘n afstand van 1.4 kilometer deur die Skurweberge. Dis ‘n adrenalien inspuiting, en Nina, Streicher, Stefan en Norbert geniet elke oomblik. Dis net die twee ou manne wat toeskouers is. Iemand moet die jongeres afneem soos hulle van die een stasie tot die volgende gly met ‘n kabel tussen die uitsonderlike natuurskoon deur.

Na ‘n vinnige koffie stop by een van Ceres se pragtige koffiewinkels reis ons na Prins Alfred Hamlet. Pietman Geldenhuys, een van die skeppers van die Voetspore tema musiek, se pa het vroeër ‘n slaghuis op die gehuggie gehad. Die plek heet steeds Geldenhuys Slaghuis. Dis waar ons gaan vleis kry vir die volgende paar dae.

Ons reis verder na Matroosberg en gaan maak onsself tuis in die ski hut. Dit wat ons by die slaghuis gekry het, gooi ons nou op die kole in die vuurherd. Die skaap ribbetjies is heerlik gegeur.

Dag 3

Dis bitterlik koud die oggend. Ons is genooi deur Didi en Waldo om op te ry na die piek van die berge wat nog toe is onder die sneeu. Die laaste sneeuval was ‘n paar dae gelede.

Matroosberg word gespel met die “t” in die vorm van ‘n kruis. Ek vra Didi hoekom? Sy sê “Die kruis is die ou Celtic Kruis wat die seevaders gebruik het en wat terug verwys na hul Christelike geloof.  So het ons dit goed gedink om deur ons logo ons geloof uit te dra. Die rooi en wit is die konneksie met Switserland, omdat daar baie na Ceres verwys word as Klein Switserland en omdat die meeste sneeu mos maar gewoonlik hier val, omdat dit die hoogste berg in die Boland is.” Dit maak sin.

Die pad is baie steil op na bo. Die eerste uitdaging is Landy Hill. Dis donkierat, eerste rat. Later kom ons by ‘n gedeelte wat net te nat en glad is. Vir ‘n tyd lank twyfel ek of ons dit sal maak. Gideon se 76 trippel wel uit na bo, maar ek sukkel. Die wenas moet selfs ingespan word. Uiteindelik kan ook ek verder. Streicher haal alles uit sy enkel kajuit se enjin en kom die eerste keer die bult uit.

Ons vorder tot by die parkeerplek, net onder die kruin. Vir die laaste stukkie pad sien ons nie kans nie. Die Cruisers is net te swaar en die pad net te nat en glad van die ys en sneeu bedekking.

Ons maak middagete en bou ‘n sneeuman. Dis groot sports in die spierwit landskap.

Dis weer ‘n uitdaging al die pad na onder. Meestal eerste rat, met die voertuig se enjin wat die briekwerk doen.

Ons pomp die bande weer op en ry, rigting Montagu. In die Koo vallei gaan maak ons onsself tuis op die Protea plaas van die Burgers. Hulle het ‘n pragtige kampplek tussen die populier bome langs ‘n waterstroom wat sommer sterk vloei na die sneeuval vroeër die week.

Genadiglik is dit die nag nie so koud nie.

Dag 4

Dis die dag om te gaan trekker ry.

Niel Burger het meer as dertig jaar gelede agtergekom ‘n 4×4 trekker kan die Langeberg uitry tot bo. Toe neem hy vriende en familie boontoe. Vandag is dit ‘n instelling in die streek. ‘n Trekker met ‘n sleepwa kan ‘n veertigtal mense op ‘n slag die berg uit neem.

Daar sit ‘n paar mense op die trekker op sitplekke wat spesiaal aangebring is. Nog veertig of meer mense is agter op die sleepwa.

Niel se seun, Pierre, doen deesdae die ritte. Soos wat mens hoër en hoër gaan word die uitsig al hoe mooier. Ons ry tussen massiewe protea bosse deur. In ‘n stadium stop hy dat ons die uitsig kan geniet. Bied ook ‘n paar appels en pere uit die vallei aan. Dan is dit verder.

Bo op die berg kan mens Robertson aan die oorkant van die Langeberg sien. Dis pragtige vistas.

Ons is weer af met die trekker en sleepwa na die bloekombos naby die opstal. Hier word ons deur Louise en haar span onthaal met potjiekos. Dis tradisioneel – waterblommetjie, hoender en bees potjie, saam met pampoen, patats, rys en sous. Eintlik ‘n Sondagmiddag maal.

Ons reis van die Proteaplaas met die Burgerpas af na Montagu. Die dorpie het van die mooiste ou geboue, uitstekend gerestoureer en bewaar. Montagu het ook geen franchise koswinkel nie. Geen KFC, Wimpy of McDonalds nie. Hier is net plaaslike restaurante wat deur die plaaslike mense en toeriste ondersteun word.

Ons besoek die Joubert museum. Kelvin Deetloff is ons gids. Hy neem ons deur die geskiedenis van die dorp, soos uitstekend uitgestal in die museum.

Anneline Mohammedt is ons gids deur die kruie tuin. Sy ken elke plant van die streek, asook sy medisinale gebruik. Sy verduidelik dit vir ons met entoesiasme en in die mooiste Afrikaans. Mens kan Montagu toe gaan net om vir haar te luister.

Ons koop ook van die kruie. Daar word ‘n tee van gemaak, en dié help vir jig, kanker, aambeie, prostaat, maag ongesteldheid, spanning… elke denkbare kwaal. Jy moet net die regte mengsel kry. Anneline sal jou daarmee help.

Die aand gaan ons na Sankie Jordaan se Badensfontein. Ons kuier saam met Mareletta en James Mundey, asook Anne-Marié van die toerisme kantoor. Dawie Kriel van die plaaslike kelder bring ook vir ons van Montagu se heel bekendste produkte – muskadel. James speel kitaar en sing ‘n paar liedjies terwyl ons wors en tjops van die vuur af eet.

Dag 5

Ontbyt is by die restaurant van Cape Dry. Daarna is dit inkopies doen by die droë vrugte fabriek. In die onlangse verlede het ek begin dink droë vrugte en neute raak onbetaalbaar duur. Maar nie by Cape Dry nie.

Ons ry die dorp uit deur die skouspelagtige tonnel in die Cogmanskloof. Bo- op die tonnel het die Engelse ‘n fort gebou tydens die Anglo Boere-oorlog.

Ons volgende mikpunt is McGregor. Net voor die dorp is Eseltjiesrus, ook bekend as die Donkey Sanctuary.

By die Sanctuary word daar na donkies omgesien wat swaar gekry het in hulle lewe. Baie is mishandel of het so hard gewerk, hulle kon net nie meer nie. Hier word donkies met liefde omring en vertroetel. Dis wonderlik om tussen hulle deur te stap en te sien hoe hulle, na jare se troos en vertroeteling, weer gelukkig is.

Daar is iets helend aan ‘n besoek aan Eselstjiesrus.

Nou na die dorp met sy kunstenaars. Eerste aan die beurt is Marie Louis Steyn. Die eertydse kuns onderwyser skilder groot doeke, en stal in plekke soos New York uit. Ons is veral beïndruk met haar beeldhouwerk.

Tweede is Des Mitchell. Sy en haar man het van KZN hierheen verhuis so drie jaar gelede. Toe ontdek sy haar verborge talent – om te skilder.

Dis amper ook die geval met Maryke van Vlaaderen Basson. Sy en haar diplomaat man het op verskeie plekke in die wêreld gewoon – Pakistan, Spanje, Duitsland… en laat in haar lewe ontdek sy dat sy kan sing en kan skilder. Hulle het nou op McGregor kom aftree, restoureer hulle huis, en Maryke leef haar kuns uit as sy nie met haar Vespa in die strate rondry nie.

Een van die kunstenaars wat reeds dekades lank op die dorp is, en wat werklik unieke kunswerk maak, is die pottebakker Nina Shand van die Millstone Pottery. Nina en Paul de Jongh maak pottebakkerswerk in oonde wat met hout gevuur en met sout geglasuur word. Elke stuk is ‘n ware kunsstuk. Die tegniek is uitdagend, en net mense met Nina en Paul se bekwaamheid kan dit bereik. Dit is uitsonderlike werk. Nie elke produk wat uit hulle oond kom is ‘n meesterstuk nie, maar dit wat wel mooi is, is uitsonderlik. Dis die kuns van die kunstenaar.

Middagete is by die restaurant van Temenos Gardens. Dis pragtige tuine waar mens kan kom sit en mediteer, of net die rustigheid van McGregor kan inneem.

McGregor is op geen deurgang roete nie. Mens moet moeite doen om die dorp te besoek, maar dit is die moeite werd.

Dis die einde van die twaalfde week. Aanstaande week maak ons klaar.

Ons praat weer.

Mooi loop.

Johan

Week 12

Day 1

We start the week by visiting a “rock-n-roll” wine farm. I have been a fan of Adi Badenhorst’s Secateurs for years and I know he apparently uses old fashioned methods to make wine.  Now we can see for ourselves.

Adi is the farmer and winemaker of Kalmoesfontein, somewhere between Malmesbury and Wellington. He almost exclusively cultivates old bush vines in his vineyard.

A bush vine is traditioinally free standing and not popularly used in wine making today. With trellised vines the grapes are similarly exposed to the elements, but with bush vines  the grapes are not equally exposed and therefore cultivating is more complex and risky.  According to Adi and others alike, it is well worth the reward.

Adi demonstrates how to prune the vines.  It is quite an art to create healthy canes by pinching off all unproductive shoots.  Cut back the newest fruiting canes with pruning shears or a secateur.  Monitor the vine’s growth and proceed with a second pruning.

We take a look at how Adi  grafts the new cultivar root-stock.  When he bought the farm 13 years ago this vineyard was not in a good condition.  With care, love and hard work, and grafted with the correct cultivars, Kalmoesfontein at present produces wine of exceptional quality.

Adi is assisted by Hanneke Krüger. She is co-winemaker at Kalmoesfontein.  Adi, Hanneke and Adi’s brother, Charl, also produce Agave tequila. It is made from the sisal plant or known as the agave plant. These plants are harvested near Graaf Reinet, and brought to Kalmoesfontein.  Here the plant sap is caramalised over massive fires, extracted, fermented and distilled.  A very time consuming process, with excellent results.

Another spirit that is produced on Kalmoesfontein, is a cocktail mixture which was cultivated in the Cape during the previous century but has since dissapeared off the market.  It is Caperatief, also known as the Cape Thief.  This is fortified wine infused with bitter Quinchona and more than 40 herbs, including Cape fynbos.  It tastes excellent when mixed with tonic water and some gin.  Truly a form of art.

Hanneke takes us to the Kalmoesfontein cellars, where wine is still made traditionally. The wine blends are put into barrels.  Different cultivars are blended from the start.  The end result even come as a surprise to the wine maker.

Adi and Hanneke almost pretend that everything happens by chance. We get the impression that they know exactly what they do.

Lunch is prepared by Charl and Mina in the Kalmoesfontein kitchen.  For starters we have a South African tradition – braaibroodjies. Then the main course.  Chicken and ribs barbequed in the fireplace. It is cooked slowly. Served with Mina’s special sweet potato and a Ceaser salad with a delicious dressing.

After lunch the Voetspore team has to take a breather in the beautifully decorated rooms. Four of us reside in the stables and Streicher and Nina in the dairy.

The Kalmoesfontein experience is an exceptional one.

Day 2

We travel deeper into the Swartland, via Wellington to the beautiful town of Tulbagh with its historical buildings.  Then to Wolseley, past a few blockhouses built by the English during the Anglo Boer-war.

We arrive in Ceres.  Another beautiful place.  The community is in bereavement after three families tragically died in a fire at a dune lodge.

We pay a visit to the zipline in Ceres.  This foefieslide in the Skurweberg mountain takes one on eight different lines for a distance of 1.4 kilometers.  An adrenaline rush and Nina, Streicher, Stefan and Norbert enjoy it thoroughly.  We, the two elderly men, are spectators.  Someone has to record the young as they zip from one station to the next in an exceptional landscape.

After a short cup of coffee at one of the beautiful coffee shops in Ceres, we proceed to Prins Alfred Hamlet. Pietman Geldenhuys, one of the Voetspore theme song composers’ father, owned a butchery in this small hamlet.  It is still called Geldenhuys Butchery, and it is here that we replenish for the next few days.

We travel to the Matroosberg and make ourselves comfortable in a ski hut. We braai our delicously spiced lamb ribs in the fire place.

Day 3

It is very cold the next morning.  Didi and Waldo have invited us to go to the peak of the mountains still covered with the snow that fell a few days ago.

Matroosberg is spelt with  the “t” in the format of a cross.  Didi explains: “The cross relates to the old seafarer’s Celtic Cross bearing symbol to the Christian religion.  We followed suit in expressing our belief through our logo.  The red and white refers to our connection with Switzerland, as Ceres is commonly known as Little Switzerland due to the snowfall on the highest mountain in the Boland.” It clearly makes sense.

It is a steep road to the top. The first challenge is Landy Hill. Low range, first gear. Later on we reach a section which is very slippery and wet. I doubt whether we can manage it. Gideon’s 76 Cruiser easily does it, for me it is a little more difficult. I finally succeed by using the winch.  Streicher in the single cab, puts in the effort and gets to the top on his first attempt.

We continue to the parking lot at the bottom of the crest. The rest of the route is impassable.  The Cruisers are loaded and the route too slippery and wet with snow and ice.

We prepare lunch and build a snowman.  Great fun playing in this snow-white landscape.

Another challenge to reach the bottom. Mostly first gear, with the vehicles automatically engaging the brakes.

We inflate the tyres, and move on to Montagu. In the Koo valley we settle in at the Protea farm of the Burgers. It is a beautiful camping site between the poplar trees next to a rapid flowing stream as a result of earlier rains.

Mercifully the night is not as cold.

Day 4

Today is the day to drive a tractor.

Niel Burger realised more than thirty years ago that you can reach the top of the Langeberg with a 4×4 tractor. Fourty people can be transporter with a tractor and trailer in one trip.

A few people sit on the specially fixed seats on the tractor. Another fourty-odd take place on the trailer.

Niel’s son, Pierre, lately take people on trips.  The scenery becomes better as we ascend. We drive through massive protea bushes.  At one stage we stop to appreciate the view, and enjoy apples and pears from the valley.  We then continue.

Once on top of the mountain, one can see Robertson on the other side of the Langeberg. Beautiful vistas.

We descend with the tractor and trailer to the blue gum trees close to the farmhouse.  Here we are treated by Louise and her team with potjiekos.  Quite traditional – waterblommetjie, chicken and beef stew, with pumpkin, sweet potato, rice and gravy on the side.  A proper Sunday lunch.

We travel from Protea farm via the Burger pass to Montagu. This town displays some of the most beautiful, excellently restored and conserved buildings.  There are no franchise food chains in Montagu. No KFC, Wimpy or McDonalds.  Here are only local restaurants supported by locals and tourists.

We visit the Joubert museum with Kelvin Deetloff as our guide.   He narrates the town’s history, as it is excellently displayed in the museum.

Anneline Mohammedt is our guide in the herb garden.  She is familiar with each plant in the district as well as its medicinal use.  She explains it with enthusiasm, using the most beautifylly spoken Afrikaans. One can visit Montagu solely to listen to hear.

We purchase some of the herbs.  You can brew tea which will assist in healing gout, cancer, haemorrhoids, prostate, upset stomach, stress … any possible ailment.  One only needs the right mix.  Anneline will be able to assist.

That evening we go to Sankie Jordaan at Badensfontein. We visit with Mareletta and James Mundey, as well as Anne-Marié from the tourism office.  Dawie Kriel from the local cellar brings a well known Montagu product  – muscadel. James performs a few songs with his guitar while we feast on wors and chops from the barbeque.

Day 5

Breakfast is at the restaurant of Cape Dry. Thereafter we do shopping in the dried fruit factory.  I have lately noticed that dried fruit and nuts are very pricy.  That is not the case at Cape Dry.

We leave town and travel through the most scenic tunnel in Cogmanskloof. The English built a fortress at the top of the tunnel during the Anglo Boer-war.

Our next destination is McGregor. Just before reaching town is Eseltjiesrus, also known as the Donkey Sanctuary.

The Sanctuary provides a refuge for abused, neglected and elderly donkeys.  Here they rehabilitate the donkeys with loving care.  Wonderful to see how well the animals have recovered after years of tenderness.

A visit to Eseltjiesrus is quite a healing experience.

We now visit some of the town’s artists.  Firstly Marie Louise Steyn. This former art teacher paints on huge canvasses and exhibits in places like New York.  We are mostly impressed by her sculptures.

Next is Des Mitchell. Three years ago she and her husband moved here from KZN. She discovered her hidden talent – to paint.

It is almost the same with Maryke van Vlaaderen Basson. She and her  diplomat husband resided in various places in the world –  Pakistan, Spain, Germany … and late in her life she discovered her talent to sing and paint.  They have now retired in McGregor, restored their house, and if not busy painting,  Maryke hops around town on her Vespa scooter.

One of the artists who has been a resident for decades, and truly creates unique art, is the potter Nina Shand from Millstone Pottery. Nina and  Paul de Jongh create pottery in kilns fired by wood and glazed with salt.  Each piece a work of art.  The technique is challenging and only experts like Nina and Paul can accomplish this.  Unique art work.  Not every piece from the kiln is a master piece, but that which is beautiful is exceptional.  The art of an artist.

We have lunch at the restaurant of Temenos Gardens. Beautiful gardens where one can sit and meditate and bask in the serenity of McGregor.

McGregor is not situated on route.  One has to specifically visit the town, but it is well worth the effort.

It is the end of week twelve. Next week we complete our journey.

Ons praat weer.

Mooi loop.

Johan